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Knotless Method of Hiding the End Tails

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Thread created on 1478530206 by muskaan.
Status: Open thread, open to all.



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In response to @Tim, here is how I hide the tail ends after completion of round/project, without any knots.
Patterns-specific tweaks or adjustments might become necessary.
I use whip stitch to sew in tails
Hope this helps alt-text

UPDATE (Nov 16, 2016)
I noticed that in my haste, the pathway of tatting in the diagrams is incorrect, if one is working with traditional or in frontside/backside methods. TWoT diagrams came to the rescue & I have reworked the instructions as well.
The pdf can be downloaded here -
Hiding End Tails without Knot

Also, my latest blogpost has an annotated (for the most part) compilation of numerous resource links and methods on how to hide ends when ending or when starting : https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.in/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html


Last edited 1479260917 by muskaan.

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Links to many more methods of hiding ends :
http://tattingfool.blogspot.com/2011/07/finishing-with-sssr.html Miranda's excellent instructions. I have used this method for a couple of years until whip stitching ends took over :-)
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.in/p/tatting-resources.html scroll down to Hiding Ends
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.in/2015/03/hiding-ends-sans-sewing.html - a few methods to hide tails when ending with a chain.
Hope these help, too, @Tim


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in reply to muskaan's post:

Now I see what you mean. I will try that. I really want to get rid of the knots.
Thank you!!


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@muskaan, the link to Miranda's method shows how to finish with an SSSR. I can do that as long as the last ring is not connected with a picot. How about when I finish with a chain attached to the base of a ring? That is what I though Maureen was describing. I may play with that a bit and see what I can come up with.


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in reply to Tim's post:


When the last ring is an attached ring, here's what I do - 2 scenarios .

  1. Ending with an attached ring.
    Here, you have to think ahead. Do not tat over the tail of the first ring when you start the round.

    This is the tail that will be inserted into the SSSR loop when pulling to close, and it will be pulled inside the last ring.
    Snip both tail ends.
    This method can be used in single shuttle, rings only patterns as well. In case of classic wheel, I leave a tail on 1st ring and at end, leave the required BTS length while pulling it thru the SSSR.
    I wouldn't advise this if it is going to be a frequently worn or washed lace, however.

  2. Ending with attached ring in case of 2 threads or if you have forgotten to leave a first ring tail.
    Here, before starting the last ring, make a LJ to base of 1st ring. Alternatively, you could cut off the thread from shuttle, (sufficient length to tat the SSSR), pull it through the base of 1st ring, tat SSSR. Before closing, pull the Chain thread through loop and SSSR.

I have always mentioned the method in my project notes in each blog post.
I've stopped using this method in general. For one, sometimes the ring may become distorted.

Oh, that reminds me, before I continue : It helps a great deal if you start the loop tatting of SSSR from the 2nd half st, Not at beginning of a double st (ie. before a fhs). I've noticed that the loop pulls way more easily & smoothly. I use this in other things too.

2nd reason. Sometimes the last ring may be too small with not enough stitches through which the tails are hidden. This can be risky when handled frequently.

3rd. Whip stitching works so fantastically (without knots, of course) & feels so much more secure (mentally and materially), is not bulky, and is almost invisible ! I'm a convert now ;-P

Have to update my Resources page -- I know I have a much longer list of methods than the ones there at present.
Will let you know when it is done.
The more you experiment, better you can make it , and find the method you like best. Happy tatting


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@Muskaan, I've read about the whipstitching before, and I understand that it is different from sewing under caps. But I don't succeed in finding instructions for it. Surly it's not as simple as it sounds - although things usually are in the long run. I can't see that it would be nearly invisible, however. Is there a tutorial for it hiding somewhere?


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in reply to Lynn's post:


I first saw it on Ninetta's blog - a collage stepwise pictorial, but didn’t quite try/get it.
Then Carollyn posted a very short video on her blog which got me truly and thoroughly hooked ! And for me another plus is that one can sew using a slightly larger needle (no threading issues and hurting eyes ;-)
Here is the link to her video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Q-JloBBdIM
It is, however true that different things work for different individuals, hence I like to try all before settling into what I like best.
If you have noticed any of my tatting over the last several months (including the Renulek Wiosna, and Lene's colourful snowflakes), you will find it difficult to see the hidden whip stitched thread.

Give it a go, and give us your verdict :-)


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Thank you @Muskaan. I see now. I was visualizing the type of whipstitch advised in things like the old Anne Orr books, in which you use a matching sewing thread and whip stitch ends to the back of the work. I couldn't figure out how in heart that would not be visible.

One more query, if I may. Do you find the whipstitching more secure than sewing under caps? It is sewing under caps, just from one direction only, instead of both sides.


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in reply to Lynn's post:


Lynn, I could never get sewing under caps quite the way it should be - under the proper caps regularly and neatly. Hence it will be improper to comment.
As for this type of whipping stitch, it is easy to sew under more number of caps, thus ensuring that the tails remain secure. Also, once they are pulled tightly, we (Carollyn, Ninetta, I) haven't faced any problems.
And it is possible if using 2 colours, to sew the other colour tail , yet not be visible.
Try it on any small motif and see if it agrees with you.
We al, have such individual preferences - nothing right or wrong , simply our personal comfort, as you so well know :-)


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@Lynn, I whip my ends most of the time. There are two tips I can offer you when doing this:

(1) Use a fine tapestry needle, #26-28, as it won't split the threads, and
(2) when the whipping is done, insert the needle between two half-stitches and pull the thread to the front of the work, cutting this flush with the lace with sharp embroidery scissors. The half-stitches 'grab' the end until blocking, and should there be any movement after that, the end will just slip to the back and remain unseen.

In practice, I cut the ends on the front longer than needed, and only cut them back flush after all tatting and blocking are done. This keeps them in place until all movement is over.


Last edited 1478641865 by JudithConnors.

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@Lynn, I've tried the whipstitch once so far, after @muskaan recommended it. It was certainly easier than sewing under caps, and pretty invisible, too, once the end has been pulled tight. I will be trying it more often now...

BTW, I'm perhaps a bit paranoid about the threads slipping out - I tie a knot, THEN I hide the ends...


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@JudithConnors, that's exactly what I do when sewing under caps. I will give the whip stitch a go this evening and see how things go.


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I am going to try that too. On the next piece I do. On a larger thread. I want to be able to see what I am doing first. Then later try it on smaller threads.


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@GraceT, I always tie a knot after finishing any piece of tatting to prevent catastrophes where threads slip out and unravel. This applies to all methods for disposing ends, though if the Michael-Takeda-SSSR method is done well, there is little probability of this happening.

Re: whipping ends: You need to do this for at least 5-6 double stitches (even through picots), sometimes around half a small ring. Unless you are using different colours, it is better to whip your ends around rings: whipping along sections of chains tends to distort them.


Last edited 1478729466 by JudithConnors.

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@JudithConnors, that is a very interesting distinction. I find that sewing under caps in rings will distort the ring, whereas the same process in chains works invisibly and effectively. I'll have to remember that.


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I tried whip stitching in ends last night. I think I'm a convert


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Okay, I just finished whipping my ends. I whipped one into a ring and one into a chain. No distortion problems in either one, so that's one up to whipping over sewing under caps, which can distort rings. It goes a bit faster than sewing under caps, so that's two up to whipping. I only used one colour, so can't speak to how invisible it might actually be from my hands. I do know that when sewing under caps, colours can be successfully hidden inside each other, because the end actually winds up inside the tunnel with the core thread. I don't see how that would be possible with whipping, so that would be one up to sewing under caps. Although whipping is a fraction faster than sewing under caps, they are both equally easy to do, so I'm good with either one. Conclusion, it depends on the colour combinations and whether or not an end has to be hidden in a ring, as to which I would prefer. Glad to have an additional option.


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I was also wondering about how that would look when using variegated threads. Would the color change be noticeable?


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@Lynn, great feedback and comparison ! I agree with most of them , except that for me, sewing under caps has been a personal challenge.

@Elfiona, as to hiding colours - here is my Hen n Chick square done in variegated. In a previous pic you can see the number of tails I had because I was trying to finish off scrap pieces. All are whipped in later. I did try to choose an element which was closest to the colour, yet not possible for all. I don't think any sewing is visible ?

@Tim, I need to add that I do sometimes make an overhand tie instead of simple crossing of threads - one single tie, not a full knot. Some things become so much part of motor memory that I realised only when I was finishing off a few medallions (in size 20 thread) these past 2 days. For smaller thread (40), I can follow the diagrams .


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@GraceT, I was a 'knotty' girl, too ;including dabbing a teensy bit of fabric glue to the final bit of snipped tail !
Now, with whipping under the stitches, sometimes even along the entire chain, I have overcome that paranoia ;-P
Just make sure that you pull both ends tight, only then snip the tails as Judith suggests.

Sewing under caps always distorted (and bulked out) my chains, and my ring stitches were too tight to sew under. With whipping, both issues are resolved.
I agree with @JudithConnors that it is better to whip for at least 5-6 stitches.


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in reply to Elfiona's post:

Working with variegated thread always presents challenges. Sometimes they match up, other times they don't. That is when you need a variety of methods, so that you can select the best for the situation. The Takeda-SSSR and filament threads would be good choices so that the ends are 'inside' the lace.


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I've got to hold up the torch of magic thread. It almost never fails me and it's strong enough to hold my tablecloth together through all my travels.


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Thanks you for defending another method, @wodentoad. Different strokes for different folks. Magic thread works so beautifully in all the videos I've seen, and from what I've seen of your work, it works wonderfully for you. But in my hands, it's a nightmare! Sometimes a bloody one, as I've actually cut my fingers trying to use it. But my biggest problem is that it always, without fail, distorts the stitches it's used in. Like Muskaan's issue with sewing under caps, I can't make it work. But I'm so glad it's a technique that works for others. There are so many ways to skin this particular cat that we can all tat flawless lace. And that's the whole point.


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I often have problems with the Magic Thread method as well. My tension is extremely tight - too tight, really. I've struggled with that for decades. I'll have to try the whipping, but I'll bet it distorts the rings and chains for me as well.

Leigh